Walking & Hiking

June Voluntary Climbing Closure

American Indians have regarded the Tower as a sacred site long before climbers found their way to the area. Recently, American Indian people have expressed concerns over recreational climbing at Devils Tower. Some perceive climbing on the Tower as a desecration to their sacred site. It appears to many American Indians that climbers and hikers do not respect their culture by the very act of climbing on or near the Tower.

A key element of the Climbing Management Plan is the June Voluntary Climbing Closure. The National Park Service has decided to advocate this closure in order to promote understanding and encourage respect for the culture of American Indian tribes who are closely affiliated with the Tower as a sacred site. June is a culturally significant time when many (not all) ceremonies traditionally occur. Although voluntary, this closure has been very successful - resulting in an 80% reduction in the number of climbers during June.

During June, the NPS asks climbers to voluntarily refrain from climbing on the Tower and hikers to voluntarily refrain from scrambling within the inside of the Tower Trail Loop. Please strongly consider the closure when planning a climbing trip to Devils Tower. Alternative climbing areas are located within 100 miles of Devils Tower National Monument. The Access Fund fully supports the voluntary closure and the Climbing Management Plan at Devils Tower.

Frequently Asked Questions

How big is the summit of the Tower? It's approximately 1 1/2 acres, about 200 ft. by 400 ft ... or about the size of a football field. The summit is slightly dome shaped and rocky, with native grasses, cactus, and sagebrush. Chipmunks, mice, pack rats and the occasional snake are found on top.

How far is it around the Tower? The circumference of the base of the Tower is 1 mile. The Tower Trail is 1 3/10 mile.

Why is it called Devils Tower? Some Indians called it Mato Tipila, meaning Bear Lodge. Other American Indian names include Bear's Tipi, Home of the Bear, Tree Rock and Great Gray Horn. In 1875, on an expedition led by Col. Dodge, it is believed his interpreter misinterpreted the name to mean Bad God's Tower, later shortened to Devils Tower.

Why is climbing allowed on the Tower? Devils Tower boasts a rich and colorful climbing history that dates back to the late 1800s when it was first climbed by two local ranchers using a wooden ladder. Climbers from all over the world consider Devils Tower to be a unique and premier climbing area. Currently, about 4000 visiting climbers come to Devils Tower each year. Although early rock climbing techniques have left an indelible (though slight) scar, contemporary rock climbers leave little trace of their ascent. Today, most climbers rely solely on their physical strength in order to make a climb. The modern technical equipment that is used for safety is designed to be efficient, removable, and non-damaging. Pitons, the steel "pegs" that were historically hammered into cracks, have almost exclusively been retired from use. The National Park Service considers rock climbing to be a legitimate recreational and historical activity at Devils Tower.

What is the June Voluntary Closure? American Indians have regarded the Tower as a sacred site long before climbers found their way to the area. American Indian people have expressed concerns over recreational climbing at Devils Tower. Some perceive climbing on the Tower as a desecration to their sacred site. It appears to many American Indians that climbers and hikers do not respect their culture by the very act of climbing on or near the Tower. A key element of the 1995 Climbing Management Plan and 2006 update is the June Voluntary Climbing Closure. The National Park Service has decided to advocate this closure in order to promote understanding and encourage respect for the culture of American Indian tribes who are closely affiliated with the Tower as a sacred site. June is a culturally significant time when many (not all) ceremonies traditionally occur. Although voluntary, this closure has been very successful - resulting in an 80% reduction in the number of climbers during June.

During June, the NPS asks climbers to voluntarily refrain from climbing on the Tower and hikers to voluntarily refrain from scrambling within the inside of the Tower Trail Loop. Please strongly consider the closure when planning a climbing trip to Devils Tower. Alternative climbing areas are located within 100 miles of Devils Tower National Monument. The Access Fund fully supports the voluntary closure and the Climbing Management Plan at Devils Tower.

How long does it take? Time of ascent depends on skill, route difficulty, and the number of climbers in the group. The average time for two climbers to climb the Durrance Route (the easiest) is between 4-6 hours. It takes about one to two hours to rappel down.

Has there ever been anyone killed? Yes, there have been five climbing fatalities since 1937. Three of these fatalities occurred while descending (rappelling) the Tower.

Do climbers spend the night on the tower? Not intentionally, park regulations prohibit camping on the tower.

Doesn't climbing damage the rock? Although early rock climbing techniques have left an indelible (though slight) scar, contemporary rock climbers leave little trace of their ascent. Today, most climbers rely solely on their physical strength in order to make a climb. The modern technical equipment that is used for safety is designed to be efficient, removable, and non-damaging. Pitons, the steel "pegs" that were historically hammered into cracks, have almost exclusively been retired from use.

What's the fastest the Tower has been climbed? In the 1980s, Todd Skinner - a Wyoming native - free-soled (climbed alone, without ropes or protection) the Durrance route in 18 minutes.

How do they get their ropes up there? Climbers typically climb in pairs. The first person to climb - the lead climber - climbs upward using only their hands and feet. They periodically place protective equipment in the rock and clip their ropes through this gear. The second climber belays (securely manages the rope) the lead climber. When the lead climber arrives at a good stance, they secure themselves to the rock and belay the second up. The second will remove all the gear that was placed on lead. Nothing is left behind.

How do climbers get down? Climbers rappel to descend off the Tower. One rope is passed through permanently installed anchors (expansion bolts) in the rock and then tied to a second rope. Climbers place both ropes through a mechanical friction device (attached to their harness) and slide (rappel) down both strands of rope until they reach the next rappel stance and anchors. In order to retrieve their ropes for the next rappel, one of the ropes (the knotted side) is pulled down - pulling the other rope up and through the anchors. Eventually, all the rope is pulled through the anchors and the process is repeated (3 or 4 times) until the ground is reached.

Is Devils Tower an old volcano?- No. Geologists agree that Devils Tower is an igneous intrusion. Magma welled up into the surrounding sedimentary rock. There it cooled and hardened. The sedimentary rock has since eroded away to show the tower.

Is it hollow?- No! You could compare it to a bunch of pencils held together by gravity.

What kind of rock is it? - Phonolite porphyry, it is similar in composition to granite but lacks quartz. Phonolite refers to the ringing of the rock when a small slab is struck, and its ability to reflect sound. Porphyry refers to its texture, large crystals of feldspar embedded in a mass of smaller crystals.

How often do the columns fall?- There have been no major falls since we have a history of it (200 years).

Current Climbing Closures

Some Climbing Routes Closed to Protect Prairie Falcons

CLIMBING CLOSURES, as of 5/1/08

Pursuant to Title 36, Code of Federal Regulations, 1.5(a)(1)(f), and in accordance with the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan, the SOUTH FACE climbing routes below, and the SOUTH EDGE of the Tower’s Summit are CLOSED to protect prairiefalcon nesting activity. See also below for rappel route notes.

Climbers are advised to be aware of territorial aggression from nesting falcons. If falcons exhibit defensive or distressed behavior, descend off of the Tower at the next safe opportunity and report the incident to a ranger or other park employee.

Closed To Climbing

(Routes between and including routes #3 “Persistence” and #21 “Waterfall” are closed)

SOUTH FACE CLIMBING ROUTES

3. Persistence

3A. Chip Saluun Memorial

4. Bailey Direct

5. Sundance

6. Mateo Tepee

7. Wiessner

8. Pseudo Wiessner

9. Extended Wiessner

9A. Fritz Fantasy

10. Devils Delight – Direct

11. Devils Delight

11A. For the Rope

12. Path of Dissent

13. Sunifighter

14. The Best Crack in Minnesota

14A. The Interesting Problem Below

15. Journey to Ixtlan

16. Danse Macabre

17. My Unsung Hero

18. Bittersweet

19. Morchella Esculenta

20. Delta I

21. Waterfall 

Rappelling
Climbers are requested to avoid the “Meadows” rappel route as conditions and familiarity with other rappel routes allows for a safe descent.

**Rangers Will Strictly Enforce Closures**

How Do They Get Their Ropes Up There?

There are those, however, who are eager to take on any challenge, no matter how impossible it may at first seem. William Rogers and Willard Ripley, two local ranchers, were determined to climb Devils Tower!

The two ranchers made elaborate preparations for the climb. They built a 350-foot wooden ladder to the summit by driving pegs into a continuous vertical crack running between two columns on the southeast side of the Tower. The pegs were braced and secured to each other by a continuous wooden strip. Sometime before the "official" ascent scheduled for the 4th of July, the two men took a 12-foot flagpole to the top of the Tower and planted it solidly in the ground.

On July 4, 1893, a thousand spectators watched in awe as Rogers made the first ascent of the Tower. To the wild cheers of the crowd, William Rogers ascended the ladder and ran an American flag up the flagpole. Devils Tower had officially been climbed!

Others quickly followed in Roger's footsteps, utilizing the ladder to ascend to the summit. (Portions of the ladder can still be seen from the south side of the Tower Trail.) On July 4, 1895, William's wife Linnie Rogers, wearing knee-high leather boots and navy-blue bloomers, became the first woman to climb the ladder to the top of the Tower.

Until the late 1930s, all who ascended the Tower utilized William Rogers' ladder. In 1937, Fritz Weissner led three mountain climbers from the American Alpine Club of New York City to the summit using rock-climbing techniques only. Their ascent took 4 hours and 46 minutes. The classic - and easiest - route to the top was pioneered the next year by Jack Durrance.

George Hopkins was the only person to climb down the Tower - without climbing up first! In 1941, as a publicity stunt, George parachuted onto the summit of Devils Tower. But his untried preparations for an easy descent did not work. Food and supplies were dropped by plane to the stranded man. For six days, George waited, eating well, while attempts were made to locate climbers with the expertise to rescue him. George was eventually - and successfully rescued - becoming the only person to reach the top of the Tower without first climbing up.

Today, modern rock climbers use a variety of techniques and equipment to scale the nearly vertical walls of Devils Tower.

Most climbers free climb Devils Tower, utilizing naturally occuring ledges, cracks, and projections to inch their way up the Tower. Ropes and equipment are used only as safety precautions - to catch climbers if they should fall. Some climbers utilize aid climbing, using equipment for holds and upward movement. Climbers are NOT allowed to chip the rock or modify Devils Tower in any way.

Climbers usually wear climbing shoes which are very tight-fitting and have a special rubber sole to help the climber retain their foothold safely on the rock. Many climbers wear helmets to protect their heads from possible rock falls. On harder climbing routes, climbers may wear chalkbags filled with gymnasts' chalk to keep fingers and hands dry while clinging to precarious holds. A harness enables a climber to be roped to their partner and to attach themselves to safety equipment on the rock.

The climbing rope is the most important piece of technical equipment. These ropes are made of nylon and are tested for flexibility and elasticity. Most ropes last for only two or three years before they are too worn to provide safety.

Pitons are steel wedges which are hammered into cracks. Climbers are no longer allowed to install fixed pitons into the rock at Devils Tower. Today, most climbers use chocks for protection rather than pitons. Chocks come in various sizes and shapes and are easily placed in and removed from rock cracks without damaging the rock. A carabiner is clipped to the chock, and the climbing rope is clipped through the carabiner, effectively attaching the climber to the rock face.

Climbers usually climb with partners. The leader ascends the rock first while their partner, who is anchored to the wall, belays them, feeding out or taking in the rope attaching them. When the leader reaches the end of the rope, they secure themselves well and belay their partner. The second climber then ascends, taking out whatever chocks have been placed in the cracks.

Most climbers rappel to descend from the Tower. With a rope well anchored, a climber can literally walk down the face of the rock, slowing the descent by braking on the rope as it slides through the harness. There are several standard rappel routes on Devils Tower. These have fixed anchors so that climbers do not have to leave any of their own equipment. The ropes pass through rappel rings and can be pulled down after the rappel.