Natural World

The upper Columbia River gorge, within which Lake Roosevelt is contained, stands in stark testimony to its geology and climate. The national recreation area spans three distinct physiographic provinces: the Okanogan Highlands, the Kootenay Arc, and the Columbia Plateau. The geologic features of these three regions are radically different and the juxtaposition of these landforms is a major factor that contributes to the unique character of the area.

The climate of the area changes from the south end to the north. The south is hot and dry in the summer with average annual precipitation at the dam around 10 inches. Vegetation is characterized by shrub steppe species such as sagebrush and bitterbrush. To the north in Colville, precipitation is around 17 inches per year, which is sufficient to support the ponderosa pines and Douglas-fir forests that are common to the area. Rainfall continues to increase as the lake approaches Northport.

The Lake Roosevelt watershed drains about 44,969 square miles, 88 percent of which is Canada. The lake extends more than 154 miles along the Columbia River through the national recreation area and includes the lower reaches of many rivers and streams. Most of the water in lake comes from glacial ice, lakes and snow high in the Canadian Rockies.

Wildlife species are abundant and varied in the Lake Roosevelt area. More than 75 species of mammals, 200 species of birds, 15 species of reptiles, and 10 species of amphibians may occur here.

Lake Roosevelt and its tributaries in the national recreation area support a varied fish community that today is considerably different from the native fish community of the early 1900s. The changes over time were caused by the introduction of nonnative species, habitat alteration such as water pollution, the damming of rivers, and reservoir drawdowns. Today, there are possibly 28 native and 12 nonnative species that inhabit recreation area waters.

Natural Features & Ecosystems

Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area is contained within three distinct geologic provinces: the Okanogan Highlands , the Kootenay Arc, and the Columbia Plateau—which has been sculpted by the Ice Age floods. The layers and landscapes of the Lake Roosevelt area show the geologic forces that shaped this scenery: changes that happened through gradual uplift, erosion, and occasionally —in sudden cataclysmic events. Over millions of years, intermittent lava flows created the Columbia Basin and tectonic action uplifted these basalt layers and nearby mountains that form the landscape within which Lake Roosevelt is located. The gradual erosion of these rock layers changed over time as the Cascade Mountains rose, forming a rain shadow that reduced the amount of precipitation in the Columbia Basin and nearby Okanogan Highlands. During the last Ice Age a series of massive floods- the largest scientifically documented floods in North America-scoured the coulees (gorges), channels scablands, and other land forms in the Columbia Basin.

Lake Roosevelt marks a transition zone between the desert-like Columbia Basin to the south and the slightly wetter Okanogan Highland to the north. Fish inhabiting Lake Roosevelt continue to adapt to an altered environment: dams have stopped salmon and sturgeon runs, the lake's depth fluctuates seasonally because of snowmelt runoff, the water temperature varies at different locations, and human-introduced species like kokanee and walleye compete with native fish populations for food and habitat. Much of the shoreline around Lake Roosevelt supports conifer forests, grasslands, and scrublands that provide habitat for an estimated 75 species of mammals, 200 species of birds, 15 species of reptiles and 10 species of amphibians. The area's plant and animal species have changed and continue to change overtime, adapting to climate transitions that vary from location to location.

Environmental Factors

Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area was created to provide visitors excellent recreational opportunities while preserving the area's natural and cultural resources. This goal can be difficult because of the special environmental factors encountered at Lake Roosevelt. The natural resources of the area are subject to a range of threats, including exotic species, pollution, and changing lake levels.

Exotic Species

Plants are everywhere we live, work, and recreate. Plants tell a story of adaptation stemming from environmental stressors to human occupations that act as a road map to understand population density and dispersal. Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area is located in a semi-arid transition zone, plant communities along the 150 mile-long reservoir gradually change from shrub steppe plant communities to ponderosa pine forest. The actual reservoir has its own unique aquatic plant species in addition to riparian vegetation along its margins.

Although Lake Roosevelt has three distinct plant communities, the last 100 years of human occupation has added too, and in some case replaced portions of these plant communities. Replaced with what? - Invasive species. Invasive species are defined as a species that is non-native (or alien) to the ecosystem and whose introduction causes or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health. In some cases this was done purely by accident, the most common is the spread of invasive plants along transportation thoroughfares such as roadway and bodies of water.

Lake Roosevelt is not immune to invasive species; a preliminary survey of 1,233 terrestrial park acres (10% of the parkland) identified 181 acres of 12 different invasive plant species. The most common invasive plants identified in the upland areas were: Spotted knapweed, Rush skeletonweed, Dalmation toadflax and Leafy spurge.

The lake or aquatic environment is no different. Several non-native species thrive in the shallow littoral zones and riparian margins. The most common aquatic invasive plant identified in the lake was: Eurasian watermilfoil.

What can you do to prevent the spread of invasive plant species?

1) Drive only on established roads and trails away from weed infested areas.

2) When using pack animals carry only feed that is certified as weed-free.

3) Know what you are planting and the potential strategies for escape to natural areas.

4) Remove seeds from vehicle tire tread and clothing.

5) Avoid driving recreation vessels through watermilfoil mats.

6) Prevent the spread of Eurasian watermilfoil by removing plant fragments from boat props, trailers, fishing lines, etc….

Lake Roosevelt is striving to identify invasive weed population within the recreation areas boundaries. Please contact us if you find invasive plant populations or have question or concerns about invasive plants.

Pollution

In the early 1980s, concerns about water quality in Lake Roosevelt were first reported in a U.S. Fish and Wildlife study that reported elevated concentrations of arsenic, cadmium, lead, and zinc in fish. Follow-up studies identified the primary source of the contamination to be a lead-zinc smelter owned by Teck Cominco, a Canadian company with U.S. subsidiaries, on the Columbia River in British Columbia just upstream from the international boundary. Since the 1950s, the smelter had discharged several hundred tons of furnace slag and effluent per day into the Columbia River.

In June 2006, EPA released beach sediment data from samples that were collected from 15 beaches at Lake Roosevelt. In the spring of 2005, nine developed beaches within the recreation area were sampled, three beaches on the Colville and Spokane Reservations were sampled, and three beaches north of the recreation area were sampled.

All 15 samples taken within the recreation area and reservations tested within acceptable health based risk standards for short-term recreational users (i.e. 14 consecutive days on one beach in the summer). The three beaches north of the recreation area had slightly elevated levels of arsenic and one of those beaches had slightly elevated levels of lead. These three beaches will be further evaluated by EPA as their study of the Upper Columbia progresses.

Fish tissue analysis is ongoing and initial results expected be released in the summer of 2007.

Changing Lake Levels

Another challenge to managing the recreation area is the constantly fluctuating water levels. This constant shift between lake and dry land makes the preservation of natural and cultural resources difficult. The lake level varies depending on inflow from rain and snow pack and outflow from the dam. The elevation of the surface of Lake Roosevelt is measured from sea level. An elevation of 1290' is considered "full pool," however fluctuating water levels have gone as low as 1208'. Low lake levels leave boat ramps high and dry, and also expose a great deal of previously inundated land.

A host of native plants colonize the riparian areas along the lake. The area around 1290' is dominated by Phalaris arundinaceae (reed canarygrass). It occupies most of the area within a few feet in elevation of the annual high water line. There are extensive stands of this grass in large shallow bays (ex. near Kettle Falls Campground) and shoreline marshes (Ex. down from Napoleon Bridge). Other less abundant species occupy this zone as well, Coreopsis atkinsonii (Tickseed), Carex lenticularis (Sedge), Alopecuris aequalis (Shortawn foxtail) have been found and other species would be expected to be found by a more thorough survey.

In the areas that are submerged for the majority of the summer aquatic plants are dominant. These plants are generally less course than the grasses and sedges at the full pool level and therefore may be more heavily grazed by waterfowl. Various species of pondweed (Potamogeton) are abundant, with Eurasian water milfoil (Miriophyllum aquaticum) common in certain areas. During the spring drawdown, various annuals can be found among the pondweed on the exposed lakebed. Plagiobothrys (Popcornflower) and diminutive annuals in the mustard family have been observed but not positively identified.

Mammals

Moose are Loose at Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area
According to Washington State Fish and Wildlife at least 400 moose are estimated to live in Washington. Almost all are in the northeastern counties of Pend Oreille, Stevens, and Spokane. Occasionally moose are spotted in the northwestern and north-central counties of Whatcom, Okanogan, and Ferry, and a wanderer or two has been seen in other areas. But the only significant populations are in the northeast's Selkirk Mountains that range into Idaho and British Columbia.

Moose sightings in the year 2000 include one crossing the highway near the town of Wilbur, two in Hawk Creek campground, running through the parking lot of the Visitor Information Center in Kettle Falls. There have been several sightings in the town of Kettle Falls, and outside of Wilbur. One was even seen swimming at Keller Ferry.

As the largest member of North America's deer family, the moose (Alces alces) is unforgettable, whether viewed from a distance or especially when encountered up close. Its sheer size commands respect. Its uniqueness makes it a curiosity.

Description
Moose are dark brown and long-legged with massive shoulders. They have prominent muzzles with an overhanging upper lip, and a large flap of hair-covered skin that hangs beneath the throat called a "bell." Adult males or bulls have broad, flat, palmated antlers tipped with a number of points, depending on age and health. Yearling males have forked antlers and by about five years of age the familiar palmated rack has developed. Antlers are shed during the winter and regrown each spring.

Washington's moose belong to a subspecies called "Shira's" moose, which is physically smaller than more northern-dwelling moose. Adults measure nearly six feet at the shoulder. A bull's antler spread can be as much as 6-1/2 feet across. Bulls weigh between 850 and 1,100 pounds and adult females or cows weigh between 600 and 800 pounds.

Moose tend to be loners, except for cows and their calves. Breeding occurs in the fall and single or twin calves are born in June. Yearling calves often live with their mothers until the cow drives them off to give birth to a new calf. Some yearlings regroup with the family several weeks after birth and remain with the cow for up to two years of age.

Black bears and cougars are the most common predators of moose calves in Washington. In areas where wolves and grizzly bears are more abundant, they are the dominant moose predators.

Generally moose prefer forested habitat where lakes, marshes, and other wetlands provide them with aquatic vegetation and willows. But in less wet areas, like northeast Washington, they also eat the woody browse in early stages of regrowth following disturbances like fires, logging, and clearing. Moose are a pioneering type animal and adapt to a variety of available forage.

With its great size and forage demands, the home range of the average moose in any given season is about three to six square miles, although they habitually wander much further.

Management
The Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) classifies moose as a game animal. A limited number of special, once-in-a-lifetime moose hunting permits are issued each year on a draw basis to hunters with valid licenses and tags. The season is open during October and November in five moose management units in northeast Washington.

Washington's moose population has been slowly growing since the first confirmed moose sighting was made in Pend Oreille County in the early '50's. A study conducted in the early '70's indicated a population of about 60 moose. The first moose hunting season in Washington was in 1977 with three permits in the Selkirk unit of Pend Oreille County. Increased moose sightings throughout the area and beyond suggested a growing population. In 1987 one moose hunting permit was allowed in the Mt. Spokane unit. By 1998 there was a total of 43 permits among five units.

Throughout the 1990s the number of moose sightings rapidly increased, including an alarming number of poaching cases. Many illegal moose kills appear to be a kind of vandalism by road-cruising shooters who leave carcasses without any attempt to retrieve game meat. The problem isn't just more moose, but more people. "Moose patrol" is now a WDFW enforcement priority with a boost in cash rewards for information leading to poacher convictions and strategic use of moose decoys and stakeouts. Information can be relayed through the 24-hour, toll-free poaching hotline: (800) 477-6224.

Even greater testimony to the parallel growth of both human and moose populations is the increased incidents of moose wandering into the suburban and urban areas of Spokane. WDFW personnel attempt to either "escort" the wanderers away from the potential hazards of civilization and back to the woods, or occasionally tranquilize and relocate troublesome individuals. Relocated moose are now marked, either with colored ear tags or radio telemetry equipment, to learn more about where they go and whether they are repeat visitors to the city.

People and Moose
Most people seem to like moose because they're so different. They don't spook or shy away from us as readily as deer, appearing more docile or even curious. But something to remember about moose is that anything that big can be potentially dangerous.

Actually moose, like any wild animal, can feel threatened by and fearful of people. Although with their long legs they could outrun us, they are not built for speed like deer and will often choose "fight" over "flight" to escape a situation. A charging moose often kicks forward with its front feet, knocking down the threat, then stomping and kicking with all four feet. Antlered bulls can use their racks just as lethally.

Moose can be aggressive any time, but at these times in particular:

• In late spring, early summer when a cow feels her very young calf is in danger
• In the fall when a breeding bull is competitive and agitated
• In the winter when they are hungry and tired from walking in deep snow
• Anytime dogs chase or just bark at them
• Anytime people approach them too closely

Since that nearly covers the calendar year and more, what do you do when you see a moose?

Most importantly, give any moose in any environment lots of space. If you're hiking in the woods, yield the trail in whatever way works -- back off, change directions, and enjoy the animal only from a distance.

This is especially important during the winter for snowmobilers and skiers because moose travel on broken trails to save energy.

Be especially alert around cow moose in late May and throughout June since there is a good chance a newborn calf is around. If you see a calf and not a cow, be extremely careful moving out of the area; you may have walked between mother and baby, which is probably the most dangerous place to be.

While enjoying the outdoors in the fall, be alert for bull moose in the breeding season. The peak of this "rut" is generally late September and early October, but it can extend from early September through late November. Cow moose can be aggressive at this time, too. Although these animals aren't focused on you at this time, give them a wide berth to avoid being mistaken as intrusive competition.

Keep all dogs confined in moose country. Moose consider dogs, which are close relatives of wolves, to be their mortal enemy. Moose have been known to go out of their way to kick at a dog, even one on a leash or in a fenced yard. If you see a moose where you live, bring dogs inside. If you're walking with your dog and see a moose, keep your dog quiet and take an alternate route out of the area. Never hike or camp with dogs in moose country.

If you are driving and come upon a moose standing or walking in the road, yield to the moose. It may be trying to rest or save energy, and if you try to move it, your motor vehicle could come under attack. If you are driving at night in an area that is frequented by moose, slow down and be extra cautious -- a collision with a moose could be fatal for both of you.

If a moose wanders into a suburban or urban neighborhood where it will have trouble wandering out because of traffic and other human congestion, contact WDFW's Spokane office at (509) 456-4082 for assistance. Meanwhile, confine dogs and other pets and keep children inside and quiet. Give the moose ample room to move out of your yard. Don't block escape routes or allow others to do so. Draw curtains on large glass doors and windows so that moose don't mistake them for an escape route.

Do not approach any moose, even if it seems quiet and gentle. Moose often lay down in the shade of buildings and trees to rest and cool down. If approached repeatedly, even by the best-intentioned onlookers, it may become stressed and aggressive. Enjoy the visitor from a respectable distance. Use binoculars and telephoto camera lenses. Be patient.

Never feed moose. Moose that are fed by people often become aggressive when they are not fed as expected. They may attack another person who has no food to offer. A moose with a history of unprovoked attacks on people may have to be killed to protect public safety.

In case of attack...
Many moose charges are bluffs or warnings, but you need to take them all seriously. Even a calf, which weighs 300 to 400 pounds by its first winter, can injure you.

A moose that sees you and walks slowly towards you is not trying to be your friend. It is probably warning you to keep away (or looking for a handout if it's been fed). It may signal an attack by laying its ears back, raising the long hairs on its shoulder hump, stomping the ground, or swinging its head in your direction. If you see it licking its lips you are far too close!

Back off. Look for the nearest tree, fence, building or other obstruction to hide behind. Unlike with cougars, bears or even dogs, it's usually a good idea to run from a moose because usually it won't chase you very far. You can run around a tree or other obstacle faster than a moose can.

If a moose knocks you down, it may continue running, or start stomping and kicking. Curl up in a ball, protect your head with your arms and hands, and hold still. Don't move or try to get up until the moose moves a safe distance away, or it may renew its attack.

Moose are a unique part of the high quality of life in Washington. If we take the time to think about their behavior and our own in response to them, and we teach our children to do the same, we can enjoy sharing space with this spectacular animal.

For more information about the wildlife of Eastern Washington State Fish and Wildlife go to the Washington State Fish and Wildlife webpage. http://www.wa.gov/wdfw/wlm/region1/wildlife.htm

Geology

The geology around Lake Roosevelt and Northeastern Washington confused and confounded geologist for decades. There were always too many questions and not enough answers. Where did that large boulder or erratic, like the one in the picture to the right, come from? What created the coulees? To learn about the mysterious landscape around the lake and how geologist pieced together this unique geologic puzzle read the park produced booklet, Lake Roosevelt and the Case of the Channeled Scablands. 

The Rocks Speak
Each district within the park has its own unique geologic story. Below is a brief story of the geology along Lake Roosevelt.

Kettle Falls Area - The mountains, which surround the Kettle Falls area, tell an ancient story of a violent geologic past. 200 million years ago you would have seen ocean all around you in this area. Although water would have surrounded you, to the west several small continents existed in that ocean. To the east, at what is now the Idaho/Washington border would have been the western edge of the North American continent and ocean floor ride on huge plates. As the plate the ocean and small continents were riding on pushed into the North American continent, the ocean floor was pushed up and formed the mountains, which can be seen at the towns of Kettle Falls and Colville. To the west the small continents crashed into the North American continent one after another forming the mountains to the west of Lake Roosevelt. But the surface of the land has changed since this happened. Today the mountains do not rise as high due to glaciers that covered this area as recently as 10,000 years ago.

Fort Spokane Area - The dark rock that encompasses the Fort Spokane area is basalt. This is hardened lava that came from great fissures on what is now the southern part of the Idaho/Washington border. Beginning approximately 17 million years ago lava flow after lava flow poured onto the landscape of what is now central Washington and northern Oregon. After 11 million years of flows, up to 150 separate lava flows with a combine depth of over 2 miles remain. Most recently wind blown soil, called loess, from the glaciers was deposited on top of the lava flows. Massive floods which roared through central Washington washed away some of this loess. Where the loess remains, the soil is extremely fertile, proving to be excellent for growing wheat, barley, canola and many other crops that you will encounter directly south of Lake Roosevelt. The soil deposits found right along Lake Roosevelt are the result of sediments left from the gigantic Ice Age Floods that came through this area 10,000 to 20,000 years ago.

Spring Canyon/Coulee Dam Area - Ice Age floods formed this part of the country. What follows is a scientific account of what is believed to have happened.

History
Miocene Landscape
About 20 million years ago, during the Miocene time, the landscape of central Washington consisted of mountains, valleys, streams and lakes. Trees, shrubs and plants flourished in a moist, temperate climate. Sequoia, oak, elm, hickory, cypress, chestnut, gingko, and other large trees grew in profusion.

Lava Flows
During late Miocene and early Pliocene times, one of the largest basaltic lava floods ever to appear on the earth’s surface engulfed about 63,000 square miles of the Pacific Northwest. Over a period of perhaps 10 to 15 million years lava flow after lava flow poured out, eventually accumulating to a thickness of more than 6,000 feet. As the molten rock came to the surface, the earth’s crust gradually sank into the space left by the rising lava. The subsidence of the crust produced a large, slightly depressed lava plain now known as the Columbia Basin (Plateau). The ancient Columbia River was forced into its present course by the northwesterly advancing lava. The lava, as it flowed over the area, first filled the stream valleys, forming dams that in turn caused impoundments or lakes. In these ancient lakebeds are found fossil leaf impressions, petrified wood, fossil insects, and bones of vertebrate animals.

Between one and 25 million years ago, during Miocene and Pliocene times, several types of animals existed in the Columbia Basin. Among these were the sloth, and perhaps thousands of varieties of insects and fish.

Folding of the Plateau
With the end of the outpouring of lava, tremendous forces deep within the earth began to warp the plateau in several places. A general uplift of the mountainous region in the north caused the entire plateau to tilt slightly to the south. This tilting and associated stairstep rock folds, called monoclines, in the vicinity of Coulee City and Soap Lake, played an important role in the formation of the Grand Coulee.

The Ice Age
With the beginning of the Pleistocene time about one million years ago, cooling temperatures provided conditions favorable for the creation of great sheets of moving ice called glaciers. Thus began the Ice Age. Over the centuries, as snowfall exceeded melting and evaporation, a great accumulation of snow covered part of the continent, forming extensive ice fields. This vast continental ice sheet reached a thickness of about 4,000 feet in some areas. Sufficient pressure on the ice caused it to flow outward as a glacier. The glacier moved south out of Canada, damming rivers and creating lakes in Washington, Idaho and Montana.

One especially large lake, covering a portion of northwest Montana, played an important role in the formation of Dry Falls. As this lake grew in size, it eventually broke through the ice dam, allowing a tremendous volume of water to rush across northern Idaho and into eastern Washington. Such catastrophic floods raced across the southward-dipping plateau a number of times, etching the coulees which characterize this region, now known as the channeled scablands.

As the floods in this vicinity raced southward, two major cascades formed along their course. The larger cataract was that of the Upper Coulee, where the river roared over an 800-foot waterfall. The eroding power of the water plucked pieces of basalt from the precipice, causing the falls to retreat 20 miles and self-destruct by cutting through to the Columbia River valley near what is now the Grand Coulee Dam.

The other major cataract started near Soap Lake, where less resistant basalt layers gave way before the great erosive power of this tremendous torrent and waterfalls developed. As in the Upper Coulee, the raging river yanked chunks of rock from the face of the falls and the falls eventually retreated to their present location.

Dry Falls is the skeleton of one of the greatest waterfalls in geologic history. It is three and one-half miles wide, with a drop of more than 400 feet. By way of comparison, Niagara, one mile wide with a drop of only 165 feet, would be dwarfed by Dry Falls.

The Ice Recedes
With a moderation in climate, the ice slowly retreated north. The Columbia returned to its original channel around the edge of the lava plateau. The Grand Coulee and the network of other watercourses across the plateau were left high and dry several hundred feet above the Columbia River.

Today the traveler sees numerous coulees and small lakes, as well as the giant precipice of Dry Falls; all are reminders of the raging torrent that once scoured this area. In the summer of 1922, geologist J Harlen Bretz of the University of Chicago became intrigued by the maze of huge streamless canyons, dry falls, and other strange features in arid eastern Washington. Over the next seven summers, Bretz painstakingly documented what he named the “Channeled Scablands.” Nothing within known geologic theory could account for what he saw. Based on the physical evidence, Bretz arrived at a revolutionary conclusion: the strange landforms of the Channeled Scablands were carved by a catastrophic flood greater than geologists had ever recognized.

Geologic understanding in the 1920s strictly followed the principal of uniformitarianism—that geologic changes occur slowly, through steady processes. To geologists, the idea of a sudden, colossal flood was unthinkable heresy. Though warned repeatedly that he would not be believed, Bretz published his conclusions, setting in motion one of the greatest debates in the history of modern geology.

Alone and against all odds, Bretz persisted in defending his unpopular hypothesis. In 1952, when he was nearly 70 years old, Bretz returned for his last summer of fieldwork in the Channeled Scablands. With the discovery of some startling new evidence—giant ripple marks—his arguments could no longer be ignored. In 1965, following a tour of the Channeled Scablands, the International Geological Congress sent Bretz a telegram: “We are now all catastrophists.” After more than 40 years, his vindication had finally come. In 1979 at age 96, he was awarded the Penrose Medal of the Geological Society of America, the nation’s highest geologic honor.

Fossils
The Blue Lake Rhino
One of the most unusual fossils ever found in the Columbia Plateau is a mold and a few bones of a small rhinoceros. In 1935, a group of hikers found it in a cavity in the vicinity of Blue Lake, a few miles south of Dry Falls. This fossil is commonly know as the "Blue Lake Rhino." The mold is preserved in pillow basalt overlying a thin sand bed. The rhino probably lay dead in a small pond when lava flowed into the water and hardened, forming a mold around the body.

The Dry Falls Interpretive Center at Sun Lake State Park
The Dry Falls interpretive center houses exhibits that tell the story of the creation of this geological phenomenon. The building affords a magnificent view of the giant precipice. The visitor center is operated under a cooperative agreement between the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission and the National Park Service. The Grand Coulee, of which Dry Falls is a central feature, has been designated a Registered Natural Landmark by the U.S. Department of the Interior. A bronze plaque to this effect is located in the small vista house adjacent to the parking area.