September 22, 2009, 1:46 pm
"Did you see the bear?" the backpacker standing at the side of the trail asked. "He sure saw you."
Well, no, I'd missed him, screened by a few trees even though we
peacefully passed within about 200 yards of each other. But I had
excuses: Like the bear, I was stuffing myself with wild blueberries.
And unlike the bear, I was frequently finding myself staring
slack-jawed at the astonishingly beautiful vistas of Olympic National
Park's High Divide trail.
The 18.2-mile wilderness loop on the Olympic Mountains' northwest side
is a sampler of what the park has to offer: old-growth forest, river
canyons and waterfalls, subalpine meadows, a high, rugged basin dotted
by peaceful lakes, views of Mount Olympus and other peaks — nearly
everything but the park's ocean beaches and rain forests. You won't be
lonely — it's justifiably popular as one of the Pacific Northwest's
classic backpacking trips — but there's more than enough room to be off
by yourself.
"It's a hike where you get to see the old-growth forest at the lower
end and then the spectacular high country," said Bryan Bell, the park's
Wilderness Information Center supervisor. "It's great for wildflowers,
fall colors, wildlife."
You can do the loop in one long day, but I gave myself four on a late
summer solo trip, both to accommodate a five-hour drive from Seattle
and to allow plenty of time to laze, mosey and explore. My trip
coincided with rare cloudless days, but anyone doing the loop should be
prepared for sudden weather changes regardless of the season. Bring
warm clothes and rain gear.
Snow is common on the trail until mid-July, and the short summer means
plants and animals have to act quickly. High-country wildflowers bloom
early, followed by billions of berries before leaves start turning
color in September. The National Park Service rates August and
September as the route's best months. Winter weather usually arrives in
late October or early November.
The compact but isolated Olympic Mountains have animals found nowhere
else, including the Olympic marmot, chipmunk and short-tailed weasel,
but also black-tailed deer, mountain goats, bobcats, cougars, elk and
black bears.
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